Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING

Feb. 12, 2018 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 7-Atelier Course 2017

固特異結構在縫完沿條之後,需要用特殊的工具將沿條打開,接著用刀子把多餘的料切除。 For Goodyear construction, the welt should be flattened by special tool and then cut off extra materials. 教室的一角,助教Bernardo正在教新同學Mirko切開大底溝。 In the cor… [Read more]


Feb. 05, 2018 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 6-Atelier Course 2017

這禮拜可說是十分精彩又忙碌的一個禮拜。在結束提羅雷克後,緊接著製作樂服試版及朋友訂製的固特異德比鞋。班上的同學也正在替自己的作品努力,圖片裡Caterina正在學習如何攀幫她的雙色德比鞋,這會是一雙挪威縫與德比鞋的搭配,真是期待! It’s another busy and hard working week. After completing a pair of Tirolese shoe… [Read more]


Jan. 25, 2018 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 5-Atelier Course 2017

這禮拜從替這雙鞋底上色開始!有別於以往偏正式的風格,這次我決定使用自然色,讓它呈現休閒的感受。 This week start from dying the Tirolese outsole! In this time, I decided to paint the outsole nature, which will make it more casual. 在上完大底色後,老師… [Read more]


Jan. 18, 2018 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 4-Atelier Course 2017

第二到手縫的目的是為了將大底與沿條縫合,完成後,用水稍微將皮革浸濕,準備把縫線合起來。 The aim for second hand stitching was to combine outsole with welt. After I stitched both side, Prof. Angelo showing me how to close the channel precisel… [Read more]


Dec. 21, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 3 -Atelier Course 2017

這個禮拜在砂輪機的聲響中開始一天的製鞋日常。在縫完Tirolese的沿條之後,我們在中底的地方填上一層軟木,並用機器將多餘的料去除。 A day was start from the sound of grinding machine this week. After I finished stitching Tirolese welt, I put a layer of cork insi… [Read more]


Nov. 24, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 2 -Atelier Course 2017

星期一的早晨,把攀幫好的寶貝鞋裝袋,這禮拜要準備開始縫製Tirolese了 ! Carried my shoe with my bag, it’s time to stitch my Tirolese shoe this week! バッグと一緒に私の靴も持って行きます。ついに今週、私のチロリアン・シューズを縫うときがやってきました。 這禮拜教授Angelo回來了,感覺又回到了一… [Read more]


Nov. 02, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 1 -Atelier Course 2017

依舊是熟悉的Duomo教堂、陽光普照的義大利。準備展開第二年的旅程,莉雅琪我回來了! Hi Duomo and lovely Italy. Ready to start my second journey, Riaci, here I am! こんにちは、ドゥオモと素敵なイタリア。2回めの旅をスタートする準備は万全。私はリアチにいます! 回到學校第一件事:跟我的寶寶們合照。這是我… [Read more]


Jun. 09, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 28-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這禮拜是最後一個禮拜上課了。雖然在工作的當中伴隨著不捨,我們卻很珍惜最後的日子,之後,大家將各飛東西,開啟人生中另一個頁面。星期一,我繼續縫製雀爾喜靴另一隻腳的第二道手縫。 It was the last week for class. Though only few days left we are going to say goodbye, we still work to the bi… [Read more]


Jun. 02, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 27-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這禮拜正式進入挪威縫的第二道手縫,也就是將鞋面與middle-sole縫起。教授Angelo正在示範戳洞的過程。 This week, I start from second hand stitching for Norwegian construction, which was stitching upper with middle-sole. The picture shows th… [Read more]


May. 26, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 26-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

木製的支撐片。老師給了我一雙小尺寸的支撐片專門用在小尺寸上,真是可愛。 Wood shank I use for my Chelsea Boots. Here is the small that use for small size like my shoes. 在填上軟木塞前,需使用砂輪機把中底稍微磨平一些。 Insole sanding after gluing th… [Read more]


Apr. 21, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 25-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜正式進入挪威縫的縫製步驟。所謂挪威縫結構,是一種不加沿條而直接將中底與鞋面縫在一起的製法,典型的挪威縫會有一條像麻花一樣的裝飾線,因此比起固特異,多了份優雅的味道。挪威縫結構可選擇兩階段或者三階段的縫製,根據鞋子的設計兩者會有不同的視覺表現。我選擇的是三階段式的整圈手縫,設計上期待裝飾線能讓靴子更有份量感。 In this week, I eventually enter the m… [Read more]


Apr. 12, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 24-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

時光匆匆的流逝,眼看著剩下一個月我們就要畢業了,快樂的時刻總過得特別快。這禮拜,我完成了靴子的攀幫,並開始為挪威縫製做準備、完成了擱置一段時間的小藍、參加了一場派對、參觀了想了很久卻一直沒機會去的Museo delle cappelle medicee。嗯,又是充實的一週!教授Angelo正在示範攀幫挪威縫的技巧。 Time flies quickly, around one month… [Read more]


Mar. 24, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 23-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜花了很多時間在準備碩士的合作案。春假期間我們再次拜訪Mr. Rossi,學習客製化鞋墊製作,接著,在開學這一周,製作下星期與Ducal會議要討論的紙版與初版打樣。 In this week, I worked very hard for preparing my master project. During spring break, we once again met with M… [Read more]


Mar. 09, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 22-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這是十分密集的一週,大家快馬加鞭的趕進度,希望能為接下來的一週假期做準備-完成在學校的階段工作,並把鞋子帶回家繼續加工。這禮拜我完成了靴子的兩次試版(包含一次C12測試版及一次皮料試版),完成內裏版型並開始準備鞋面。同時間,準備下一款鞋子的鞋面版。圖片是我靴子測試版C12完成的樣子。 This was quite an intensive week. Everybody speed-up… [Read more]


Mar. 02, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 21-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜,我完成了我的布雷克縫牛津鞋,並且開始我的新設計。這回我嘗試靴子的設計,並挑選雀爾喜靴作為這次的挑戰主題。我一直想嘗試有筒高的鞋子,原因在於在台灣即便有好看的款式,卻總覺得沒有好看的筒身,我想,藉由這次的機會,會是一次很好的練習。圖片中我在楦頭上畫好設計圖,準備拆下來製作版子。 In this week, I finished my Oxford shoe for Blake c… [Read more]


Feb. 23, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 20-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜我們再次光顧Mr. Rossi的鞋店。第一次拜訪在我們大致了解店內的運作後,這次老闆開始教我們如何製作客製化的鞋子。我們開始認識儀器、量腳、選材料、製作中底、修改楦頭。Mr. Rossi說到:不只是製作一雙定製鞋,更需要照顧到客人的喜好。於是我們站上足底掃描機,開始製作訂製鞋。圖片為Masami站在掃瞄機上的樣子。 This week, we once again visited… [Read more]


Feb. 16, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 19-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

大家在完成德比鞋後,這個禮拜開始,同學們各自展開不一樣的鞋款製作。Masami及Joanne選擇挑戰孟克鞋,是一種有金屬釦裝飾、不需解鞋帶的鞋款。Lara選擇製作靴子,Joe繼續完成他的第二款固特異鞋,而我則選擇繼續完成布雷克牛津鞋。圖片老師正在講解孟克鞋的開版方式。 After finishing derby shoe, this week, we started from diffe… [Read more]


Feb. 10, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 18-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

固特異鞋製作在完成第二道手縫後,是開始釘跟的步驟。老師Angelo告訴我們,跟的形狀及橡膠片的形狀可以有不同的設計,藝術家會根據自己的喜好設計喜歡的圖案。書本上有許多不同的製作方式,讓我們參考。 After finishing second hand stitching, we started from making heels. Angelo told us, the shape fo… [Read more]


Feb. 03, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 17-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

上個禮拜完成固特異的第一道手縫後,我繼續完成放置支撐片、填入軟木塞等作業。同時碩士的專案課程也從這禮拜開始了,看來這學期將會有忙碌而充實學習的日子!圖片是我完成內縫線準備貼覆蓋片的樣子。 After finished first Goodyear shoe hand stitching, I moved on to shank putting and cork filling. At t… [Read more]


Jan. 26, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 16-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

我們繼續下學期的課程,第一堂課我們學製作捏線,以及手縫技巧。上學期完成鞋子的攀幫過程,接著的步驟需將中底與沿條縫起,因此線的製作與手縫的方式很重要,這將影響之後鞋子的牢固度。我們從莫卡辛的裝飾線開始練習起,Angelo說固特異的手縫方式跟莫卡辛的手縫裝飾有一曲同工之妙。圖片是練習用的莫卡辛縫製。 We keep going our course for second semester. … [Read more]