Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING

Jun. 09, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 28-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這禮拜是最後一個禮拜上課了。雖然在工作的當中伴隨著不捨,我們卻很珍惜最後的日子,之後,大家將各飛東西,開啟人生中另一個頁面。星期一,我繼續縫製雀爾喜靴另一隻腳的第二道手縫。 It was the last week for class. Though only few days left we are going to say goodbye, we still work to the bi… [Read more]


Jun. 02, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 27-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這禮拜正式進入挪威縫的第二道手縫,也就是將鞋面與middle-sole縫起。教授Angelo正在示範戳洞的過程。 This week, I start from second hand stitching for Norwegian construction, which was stitching upper with middle-sole. The picture shows th… [Read more]


May. 26, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 26-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

木製的支撐片。老師給了我一雙小尺寸的支撐片專門用在小尺寸上,真是可愛。 Wood shank I use for my Chelsea Boots. Here is the small that use for small size like my shoes. 在填上軟木塞前,需使用砂輪機把中底稍微磨平一些。 Insole sanding after gluing th… [Read more]


Apr. 21, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 25-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜正式進入挪威縫的縫製步驟。所謂挪威縫結構,是一種不加沿條而直接將中底與鞋面縫在一起的製法,典型的挪威縫會有一條像麻花一樣的裝飾線,因此比起固特異,多了份優雅的味道。挪威縫結構可選擇兩階段或者三階段的縫製,根據鞋子的設計兩者會有不同的視覺表現。我選擇的是三階段式的整圈手縫,設計上期待裝飾線能讓靴子更有份量感。 In this week, I eventually enter the m… [Read more]


Apr. 12, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 24-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

時光匆匆的流逝,眼看著剩下一個月我們就要畢業了,快樂的時刻總過得特別快。這禮拜,我完成了靴子的攀幫,並開始為挪威縫製做準備、完成了擱置一段時間的小藍、參加了一場派對、參觀了想了很久卻一直沒機會去的Museo delle cappelle medicee。嗯,又是充實的一週!教授Angelo正在示範攀幫挪威縫的技巧。 Time flies quickly, around one month… [Read more]


Mar. 24, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 23-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜花了很多時間在準備碩士的合作案。春假期間我們再次拜訪Mr. Rossi,學習客製化鞋墊製作,接著,在開學這一周,製作下星期與Ducal會議要討論的紙版與初版打樣。 In this week, I worked very hard for preparing my master project. During spring break, we once again met with M… [Read more]


Mar. 09, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 22-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這是十分密集的一週,大家快馬加鞭的趕進度,希望能為接下來的一週假期做準備-完成在學校的階段工作,並把鞋子帶回家繼續加工。這禮拜我完成了靴子的兩次試版(包含一次C12測試版及一次皮料試版),完成內裏版型並開始準備鞋面。同時間,準備下一款鞋子的鞋面版。圖片是我靴子測試版C12完成的樣子。 This was quite an intensive week. Everybody speed-up… [Read more]


Mar. 02, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 21-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜,我完成了我的布雷克縫牛津鞋,並且開始我的新設計。這回我嘗試靴子的設計,並挑選雀爾喜靴作為這次的挑戰主題。我一直想嘗試有筒高的鞋子,原因在於在台灣即便有好看的款式,卻總覺得沒有好看的筒身,我想,藉由這次的機會,會是一次很好的練習。圖片中我在楦頭上畫好設計圖,準備拆下來製作版子。 In this week, I finished my Oxford shoe for Blake c… [Read more]


Feb. 23, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 20-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜我們再次光顧Mr. Rossi的鞋店。第一次拜訪在我們大致了解店內的運作後,這次老闆開始教我們如何製作客製化的鞋子。我們開始認識儀器、量腳、選材料、製作中底、修改楦頭。Mr. Rossi說到:不只是製作一雙定製鞋,更需要照顧到客人的喜好。於是我們站上足底掃描機,開始製作訂製鞋。圖片為Masami站在掃瞄機上的樣子。 This week, we once again visited… [Read more]


Feb. 16, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 19-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

大家在完成德比鞋後,這個禮拜開始,同學們各自展開不一樣的鞋款製作。Masami及Joanne選擇挑戰孟克鞋,是一種有金屬釦裝飾、不需解鞋帶的鞋款。Lara選擇製作靴子,Joe繼續完成他的第二款固特異鞋,而我則選擇繼續完成布雷克牛津鞋。圖片老師正在講解孟克鞋的開版方式。 After finishing derby shoe, this week, we started from diffe… [Read more]


Feb. 10, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 18-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

固特異鞋製作在完成第二道手縫後,是開始釘跟的步驟。老師Angelo告訴我們,跟的形狀及橡膠片的形狀可以有不同的設計,藝術家會根據自己的喜好設計喜歡的圖案。書本上有許多不同的製作方式,讓我們參考。 After finishing second hand stitching, we started from making heels. Angelo told us, the shape fo… [Read more]


Feb. 03, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 17-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

上個禮拜完成固特異的第一道手縫後,我繼續完成放置支撐片、填入軟木塞等作業。同時碩士的專案課程也從這禮拜開始了,看來這學期將會有忙碌而充實學習的日子!圖片是我完成內縫線準備貼覆蓋片的樣子。 After finished first Goodyear shoe hand stitching, I moved on to shank putting and cork filling. At t… [Read more]


Jan. 26, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 16-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

我們繼續下學期的課程,第一堂課我們學製作捏線,以及手縫技巧。上學期完成鞋子的攀幫過程,接著的步驟需將中底與沿條縫起,因此線的製作與手縫的方式很重要,這將影響之後鞋子的牢固度。我們從莫卡辛的裝飾線開始練習起,Angelo說固特異的手縫方式跟莫卡辛的手縫裝飾有一曲同工之妙。圖片是練習用的莫卡辛縫製。 We keep going our course for second semester. … [Read more]


Jan. 20, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 15-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

從17th December,2016~15th January, 2017是我們的聖誕假期,一個月的時間雖然無法繼續完成作品覺得有點可惜,但給了自己一點時間能夠更認識義大利這個美麗的國家。這次的旅程,我安排了幾個景點旅遊,分別是:同樣在托斯卡尼區的古都錫耶納、義大利北邊的浪漫城市維羅納、大學城波隆那,當然也少不了體驗佛羅倫斯更多的城市面貌。 From 17th December, 2016… [Read more]


Dec. 23, 2016 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 14-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

在製作好固特異的中底後,我們開始繼續攀幫的過程。Angelo正在示範固特異的攀幫技巧。好的攀幫技巧將會影響鞋子的成形,固特異的攀幫做法也與以往的不同,需要使用更多的力氣配合正確的角度,將釘子釘在牆內。 When finishing insole for Goodyear shoe, we started the process for lasting. Angelo was demons… [Read more]


Dec. 15, 2016 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 13-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這禮拜我們完成了鞋面,並開始製作中底,於是,我們又進入新的篇章-固特異工法。所謂固特異工法是一種將中底、沿條縫起後,在將大底縫起的一種古老製鞋法,在許多高端的紳士鞋品牌可以看到此種作法,是一種手工成分十分高的技術。 星期一,我繼續將已經車好的鞋面上膠與內裡貼在一起,上面留下要攀幫用的8mm,以及後續會修掉的4mm。接著就能沿著滾條車起來了。 This week, we finished… [Read more]


Dec. 06, 2016 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 12-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這禮拜在完成鞋面紙板後,我們一樣使用測試用的纖維布進行攀幫,確認有無需要修正版型。於是星期一一大早,在Angelo的指導下,我們又展開熱烈的討論。 After cutting our upper pattern, we lasting with fabric liked usual. In the Monday morning, with Angelo’s assistance, we … [Read more]


Dec. 02, 2016 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 11-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

前幾個禮拜著重在鞋面的製作,這禮拜開始製作鞋大底。Angelo正在教Joe黏鞋跟前的前置作業。 Our course focus on making upper couple week ago, in this week, we focus on the method of making outsole. In this picture, Angelo are teaching JOE th… [Read more]


Nov. 29, 2016 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 10-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

上禮拜完成裁片後,星期一我開始組合裁片。由於這雙鞋的設計比較複雜,為了不讓重疊處太厚,重疊的地方要再削薄一些。 Last week after preparing all the pieces, Monday I start from combining pieces together. In case not to let leather became too thick, I skive… [Read more]


Nov. 21, 2016 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design
Shoe Making 9-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

經過一個禮拜的休息,又充滿朝氣了,等不急要衝進教室繼續完成作品。現在的日子每天都覺得不夠用,好希望能有更多的時間可以做更多的鞋子。好,這禮拜就從製作試版鞋開始吧! After one week break, I felt energized. Couldn’t wait but keep going my shoes. Time is limited, I hope I could ha… [Read more]




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