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Li SHIAU-TING
Reporter
Li SHIAU-TING

Nationality: Taiwan
Course: Shoe Making
Program: Master Course
Period: Sept. 5,2016-Apr. 28,2017


Shiau-Ting, Li. Shoes designer from Taiwan.
After working in Taiwanese footwear industry for three and a half years, she came to Firenze to study shoes making course, the city which is famous for leather art and shoes.
Although she already has basic aesthetics and sketching technique background from university (B.A.), yet she hopes to extend her shoe-making skills here in Riaci. She believes designer can deliver their thoughts through their works, hoping to keep motivate people with her designs.

李曉婷,來自台灣的鞋類設計師。
在台灣鞋產業工作三年半之後,她決定到皮革之都-佛羅倫斯,學習製鞋技術。
大學主修產品工藝,擁有美學背景、好的品味及繪畫基礎。即便如此,仍期望到莉雅琪延伸自己在實作上的經驗。她相信,設計師能夠透過設計表達想法,希望能持續用創作感動身邊的人。

台湾の靴業界で靴デザイナーとして3年半経験を積んだ後、さらに学びを深めようと革工芸と靴で有名なここフィレンツェへやって来ました。
基本的な審美眼とスケッチ技術は大学(文学士号取得)で学んでいましたが、さらに靴制作の技術を磨くためにリアチ入学を決めました。「デザイナーの想いは、デザインを通して人々に届く」ことを信じ、自分のデザインで人々の心を動かしたいと願っています。

Apr. 21, 2017 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags:, | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design

Shoe Making 25-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜正式進入挪威縫的縫製步驟。所謂挪威縫結構,是一種不加沿條而直接將中底與鞋面縫在一起的製法,典型的挪威縫會有一條像麻花一樣的裝飾線,因此比起固特異,多了份優雅的味道。挪威縫結構可選擇兩階段或者三階段的縫製,根據鞋子的設計兩者會有不同的視覺表現。我選擇的是三階段式的整圈手縫,設計上期待裝飾線能讓靴子更有份量感。

In this week, I eventually enter the main point of Norwegian construction- Norwegian hand stitching. Norwegian construction is a stitching upper and insole without welts. The typically Norwegian has decoration thread twist around the main thread, so, compare to Goodyear construction, it looks more elegant. I chose to stitching my boots whole around with thread, I hope my shoes look more solid.

Li SHIAU-TING_20170407_01
這個像巧克力的東西是教授製作給我收納裝飾線用的,Angelo邊幫我切形狀邊做出咬一口的動作。

The red and green stuff was made for helping me organize the decoration thread. At first I was wondering what it was for. Angelo picked it up and pretend he tried to bite it. It was chocolate, Angelo said it with joke.

Li SHIAU-TING_20170407_02
Angelo正在幫我處理最後的縫線。在起針跟結尾的地方比較特別,因此Angelo一再叮嚀這兩個重要步驟要呼叫他。我用我不是很流利的義大利文呼喊:我完成了! 再加上幾個比手畫腳。這是我們平常的溝通方式,很高興我們漸漸形成某種默契,讓我了解他嚴厲下的體貼。

Angelo was helping me to finish the Norwegian stitch. The beginning and the end was a little bit tricky, he said. He kept attend to my work and asked me to call him if I need help. I finished! I said it with my poor Italian. Though I couldn’t fully understand what he talked but, it seemed to be, sometimes I can feel his thoughtful.

Li SHIAU-TING_20170407_03
每縫一小段,就要拔掉一根固定的釘子,並用錐子找出合適的洞。這個步驟除了挑戰耐心外,距離跟力氣的掌握也非常的重要。

For each amount of distance, I took out one nail and find the right hole for hand stitching. A step tested artisan’s patient as well as experience.

Li SHIAU-TING_20170407_04
我的下一款鞋面-整片式的德比鞋。我正在替摺好的鞋口貼上補強帶。

My next shoes will be “one piece derby”. Now, I was taping the edge with reinforcement.

Li SHIAU-TING_20170407_05
由於是整片式的版型,在鞋翼的地方是用反車的方式。角度過大的反車十分挑戰技術,它的作法類似Olatula,在車的時候不上膠,因此很容易走位。我成功車完四片反車,雖然在機台上直冒冷汗,但結果我很滿意!

It’s not easy to stitch the quarter part that it should be stitched inside and then fold over. This technique is similar to “Olatula”, it couldn’t use glue to help you stitch, which means, would failed easily. I am quite satisfied with outcome, I made it successfully.

Li SHIAU-TING_20170407_06
挪威縫完成第一道手縫的樣子。縫好後需將鞋面與內裏層分開,接著要將內裏跟港寶割除掉。

The image when I finished first Norwegian hand stitching. Later, the lining needed to be separated with the upper and cut it off.

Li SHIAU-TING_20170407_07
週五與Andrea來到想了很久的珍珠奶茶店,愜意的下午與她聊天分享最近的生活。

It’s bubble tea time. There opened a new bubble tea shop near central market. Me and Andrea having a very cheerful time together.

Li SHIAU-TING_20170407_08
假日在家繼續趕工我另一隻挪威縫靴子!

Working hard at my home!

Li SHIAU-TING_20170407_09
在Eric家舉辦的溫馨派對,有吃不完的pasta跟起司蛋糕,非常愉快的夜晚。

On Friday night, we held a party at Eric’s accommodation, with endless pasta and cheese cakes. What a pleasant night!

Li SHIAU-TING_20170407_10
周末午後的散散步,意外發現一處適合野餐的好去處。

The weather in Italy is getting hot these days. I found a good place which was good for picnic.


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這個禮拜正式進入挪威縫的縫製步驟。所謂挪威縫結構,是一種不加沿條而直接將中底與鞋面縫在一起的製法,典型的挪威縫會有一條像…
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