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Nationality: Japan
Course: Shoe Making

Jul. 28, 2014 | Posted in Reports, Shoemaking , | Tags:, Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking


外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法1 26.2.2014

外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法

・This student is making the welt for the Goodyear-style shoe(photo on the left)
・Students perform the stitching carefully, sewing together outsole and welt, so that a narrow stitch width is visible even from the outside (central photo)
・The toe part has to be sewn finely (photo on the right)


外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法

・With this technique, after having glued the heel, students attach the outsole (photo on the left)
・In the Goodyear stitching, the welt sewing has to be performed from the plantar arch side
(central photo)
・The welt sewing requires a lot of concentration and that’s why it’s a very tiring work (photo on the right)


外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法

・In the Goodyear stitching, we create a groove in order to sew welt and outsole together (photo on the left)
・This student is making a type of neck shoes; in the photo he is busy in sewing one difficult part (photo on the right)


外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法

・It’s possible to make complex shoes if we keep the basics in the way we remove the paper pattern (photo on the left)
・Students attach a fake welt around the shoe and insert the cork into the central part (photo in the middle);
・Students review the procedure, step by step, before proceeding and are encouraged to ask the professor, whenever they don’t understand a part (picture on the right)


外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法

・Students make the groove in order to sew together welt and outsole (photo on the left)
・After having wet the sole, students draw a line with a piece of glass, right where they are going to insert the knife(central photo)
・They make an incision with the knife, following the drawn line (picture on the right)



・The arch part is especially difficult, and thus this work requires much attention.




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