Accademia Riaci
Lesson Report

Up-to-date report from one of our students!


Nationality: Japan
Course: Shoe Making

Jun. 20, 2014 | Posted in Blog, Shoemaking , | Tags:, | Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking

Creation of shoe exercise sample and shoe cutting procedure


Shoe 20 Nov 2013  Shoe 20 Nov 2013

・previous report, we place the paper pattern on the cloth for exercise and we cut each part.
・Let’s thin out the parts where the wings and quartets overlap and let’s make sure that they don’t affect the surface of the shoe.
・Each part will be attached with rubber cement and sewn with the sewing machine
(the finishing is beautiful, but the machine has a high degree of difficulty.)


Shoe 20 Nov 2013

・stitched together, we punch the holes for the shoelaces and we prepare for the shoe lasting process.


Shoe 20 Nov 2013  Shoe 20 Nov 2013  Shoe 20 Nov 2013 Shoe 20 Nov 2013

・We align the temporary sample with the shoe tree we are going to use
・Let’s align it slightly higher than the standard position for heels , then fix it with a nail.
・We last the shoe starting from the toe part
(This is the basics for any type of lasting method)
・ Once the teacher shows the starting point, the student proceeds with the lasting.


Shoe 20 Nov 2013  Shoe 20 Nov 2013  Shoe 20 Nov 2013

・The picture on the left shows the shoe sample completed.
・After completing the shoe lasting, each student has to check whether the shape corresponds to the original design or not
(there are different types of shoe samples: the wearable one, where we can actually try it out and see if it’s comfortable; the one only made for checking the design. This time we used the latter and we check the lines and the size)
・We make sure that at first glance, there is no problem or protrusion.


Shoe 20 Nov 2013  Shoe 20 Nov 2013  Shoe 20 Nov 2013

・When we are sure that the shoe sample is ok, we proceed with the creation of the real shoe.
・We place the paper pattern on the leather and check the cutting position.
(We have to perform the cutting taking into account that the leather will eventually stretch and its direction, as from our decision depends the final result)


Shoe 20 Nov 2013  Shoe 20 Nov 2013  Shoe 20 Nov 2013

・After the cut, as before, we thin out the overlapping parts.
(Unlike cloth-like fabric, leather has many fibers that make the task more difficult)
・Both the internal and external part of the leather will be cut.
(For men shoes the thickness is 1.2~1.7mm and for women shoes is 1.0~1.3mm).


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