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Dec. 11, 2014 | Posted in Reports, Shoemaking | Tags: ,
Staff Blog≫ Shoemaking: Balmoral & Blucher adhesive method, Goodyear welt 1

Shoemaking: Balmoral & Blucher adhesive method, Goodyear welt 121.7.2014

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・After the upper and the lining are sewn together, the shoe is ready for shoe lasting. (Picture left)
・For an adhesive method shoe, a metal shank is inserted to the planter arch part of the intermediate sole.
Shank can be made of wood or leather. (Picture center)
・Cutting out of the parts and skiving of the overlapping leather must be done cautiously as they affect the degree of perfection in the finished products. (Picture right)

・接着製法で使用する中底の土踏まず部分には金属製のシャンクを入れます。 シャンクには木や革を使用する事もあります。(中)

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・Students sew the welt (guarudlo) on to a Goodyear welt shoe with blind stitches. (Picture left)
・In the lesson, students open sewing holes on the intermediate sole as marks. Then they put a needle through a hole from inside, open holes through the upper and the welt, and uses 2 needles to sew them together. (Picture center)
・The toe part are sewn so it becomes fan-shaped, therefore students must be very careful about where to open holes inside. (Pictures right)

・授業では中底に予め縫いの穴を開けてマーキングを行います。内側から穴に針を通して アッパーとウエルトに穴を開け、2本の縫い針を使用して縫い合わせます。(中)

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・For a heel part which was left with no sewing done, students uses nails to fix the welt. (Picture left)
・8mm -nails are used to fix the heel part of the adhesive shoe lasting. (Picture center)
・For adhesive methods, students start with the shoe lasting of the lining, put on a toe core, perform the shoe lasting of the upper, put on glue around and bend the nails down to finish a shoe lasting. (Picture right)




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