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morita
Reporter
Morita

Nationality: Japan
Course: Shoe Making
Assistant

Nov. 14, 2014 | Posted in Blog, Shoemaking , | Tags:, | Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking

Summer Course:Adhesive method Balmoral pumps 3

サマーコース 接着製法パンプス、内羽 3 8.7.2014


Adhesive method Balmoral pumps_20141111_1  Adhesive method Balmoral pumps_20141111_2  Adhesive method Balmoral pumps_20141111_3

・Students correct lines of the paper pattern before cutting, in order to get the exact shape. (Picture left)
・Using the corrected lines of the paper pattern, students make a skinny cutout of about 2mm width (canaletto). (Picture center)
・Students cut the leather as they check the stretch direction and the part. (Picture right)

・型紙は描いたたラインを忠実に裁断する必要があるので裁断前に修正します。(左)
・修正したラインに合わせて2mm程度の細い切り抜き(canaletto)を作ります。(中)
・革の裁断は伸びる方向や位置を確認しながら行います。(右)


Adhesive method Balmoral pumps_20141111_4  Adhesive method Balmoral pumps_20141111_5  Adhesive method Balmoral pumps_20141111_6

・If folding back (ripiegare) is to be done, students skive the folding part of the leather by 6mm width. (Picture left)
・When students perform a shoe lasting of the toe part, they starts with the inside leather (fodera). Then they nail around it. (Picture center)
・Then they put glue (mastice), bend all the nails inward and adhere the inside leather (fodera). (Picture right)

・折り返し(ripiegare)をする場合は6mm程度の幅で薄く革を漉きます。(左)
・つま先部分の吊り込みは最初に内革(fodera)を吊り込み周囲を釘で止めます。(中)
・接着糊(mastice)を塗り釘を内側に倒して内革(fodera)を貼り合わせます。(右)


Adhesive method Balmoral pumps_20141111_7  Adhesive method Balmoral pumps_20141111_8  Adhesive method Balmoral pumps_20141111_9

・Students put a toe core (puntare), overlap with the outside leather (tomaia) and perform a shoe lasting. (Picture left)
・For completion, students put on an outsole (suola) of 2mm thick and trim around it. (Picture right)

・つま先部分に先芯(puntare)を入れて外革(tomaia)を閉じて吊り込みを行います。(左)
・厚さ2mm程度の本底(suola)を貼り付けて周囲を綺麗に整えて完成です。(右)



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