Students' report

Up-to-date report from one of our students!

Li SHIAU-TING
Reporter
Li SHIAU-TING

Nationality: Taiwan
Course: Shoe Making
Program: Atelier Course
Period: Sep. 4, 2017 – Apr. 27, 2018


Shiau-Ting, Li. Shoes designer from Taiwan.
After working in Taiwanese footwear industry for three and a half years, she came to Firenze to study shoes making course, the city which is famous for leather art and shoes.
Although she already has basic aesthetics and sketching technique background from university (B.A.), yet she hopes to extend her shoe-making skills here in Riaci. She believes designer can deliver their thoughts through their works, hoping to keep motivate people with her designs.

李曉婷,來自台灣的鞋類設計師。
在台灣鞋產業工作三年半之後,她決定到皮革之都-佛羅倫斯,學習製鞋技術。
大學主修產品工藝,擁有美學背景、好的品味及繪畫基礎。即便如此,仍期望到莉雅琪延伸自己在實作上的經驗。她相信,設計師能夠透過設計表達想法,希望能持續用創作感動身邊的人。

台湾の靴業界で靴デザイナーとして3年半経験を積んだ後、さらに学びを深めようと革工芸と靴で有名なここフィレンツェへやって来ました。
基本的な審美眼とスケッチ技術は大学(文学士号取得)で学んでいましたが、さらに靴制作の技術を磨くためにリアチ入学を決めました。「デザイナーの想いは、デザインを通して人々に届く」ことを信じ、自分のデザインで人々の心を動かしたいと願っています。

Oct. 25, 2016 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags:, | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design

Shoe Making 6-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜,在完成Francesina的鞋面紙板後,我們開始使用皮革組合我們的草模。接著呢,我們也開始學習如何製作Francesina的內裡。Francesina跟先前的Decollete有很大的不同在於,Francesina有鞋舌而Decollete沒有鞋舌,因此需另外設計鞋舌裁片與鞋身結合。

This week, after completing pattern of Francesina, we start to prototype our design with leather. Furthermore, we also learned the method of measuring the lining. The pattern of lining differ greatly between Francesina and Decollete, Francesina-pattern has a piece of “tougue”, whereas Decollete-pattern doesn’t, which means, we have to design another pieces to be stitched onto the upper.

shisu_ting_20161014_01
我的同學joe正在專注車縫他的鞋面。他選擇的是翼紋雕花鞋作為第一款男鞋的練習。翼紋雕花鞋裁片複雜,這種款式需要更多的裁片、更多的量測以及投注更多的時間。

Our classmate Joe is focusing on stitching his prototype of Francesina. His shoe type is brogues shoe with wing-tip which is more complicated designs. This type of shoe contains more leather pieces, more measurement and times to practice.

shisu_ting_20161014_02
這是我的Francesina,我選擇用cap-toe來練習。Cap-toe的設計在紳士鞋的分類當中是屬於比較正式的鞋款,很適合工作時穿。這個鞋面的設計較雕花鞋簡單,我決定先從簡單的開始練習,等收到訂好的楦頭,再嘗試雕花鞋。

This is my Francesina, shoe type is classic cap-toe. This kind of design is more like formal shoe for working place so, pattern is more simple compare to brogues shoe. I planned to start from this pattern for practice, then later brogues shoe to make a pair.

shisu_ting_20161014_03
老師在講解如何設計Francesina的內裡以及與女鞋的不同。

This step showed us how to design lining in Francesina.

shisu_ting_20161014_04
這張照片是我完成內裡紙板拍的,這款鞋面的內裡跟女鞋有很大的不同,鞋舌的地方需要另外分開裁切。

Photo shot of my pattern of lining. The tongue piece should be separated from main module.

shisu_ting_20161014_05
這是我的Francesina,雖然這是在等楦頭前的練習,使用的是用剩下的皮料,我仍然很享受配色的過程。

Although this one just for testing, I enjoy matching different pieces with different colors.

shisu_ting_20161014_06
這個步驟我覺得很重要,在使用車縫機縫住鞋身與鞋舌前,需先用手縫的方式將鞋舌固定。

Important step of Francesina, after combining all the pieces together (sewing machine), we hand stitch to combine tongue with main upper.

shisu_ting_20161014_07
處理完內裡的樣貌。

The appearance of Francesina’s lining.

shisu_ting_20161014_08
處理邊的方式大致上有分成五種,Decollete 的練習使用較為簡單的處理邊的方式,這次嘗試Venatura是將細細的裁條夾在鞋面與內裡的一種技術。

There are five different methods of special finishes of the edge, when we practiced Decollete, we learned much simple folding such as slip beading and reversed. In this time, I challenged myself for more complicated folding, which was named Venatura. Venatura is a folding needs a strip of leather being sewn between upper and lining.

shisu_ting_20161014_09
在完成鞋舌跟鞋面的裁片後,要將這兩部分車縫起來。在組合鞋舌的時候技巧比較特別,需先在鞋面處車一條線,然後翻過來再補車一條在內裡處固定。

After finishing tongue pieces and main pieces, we join them together. First, we stitched tongue to upper then stitched again only on lining.

shisu_ting_20161014_10
禮拜六我們來到Piazza Pitti 宮參觀,這邊曾經是義大利國王皇后的城堡,在廢除國王制度之後這邊改成博物館,裡面典藏了許多文藝復興時期、古羅馬時期以及巴洛克時期的畫作,十分值得參觀。
這禮拜的報告到這邊囉,下週見!

Art stage on Saturday, we went to Palazzo Pitti, where used to be palace of Italian king, now a museum preserved many beautiful paintings. This is weekly reports, see you next week!


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