Up-to-date report from one of our students!
Course: Shoe Making
Program: Atelier Course
Period: Sep. 4, 2017 – Apr. 27, 2018
After working in Taiwanese footwear industry for three and a half years, she came to Firenze to study shoes making course, the city which is famous for leather art and shoes.
Although she already has basic aesthetics and sketching technique background from university (B.A.), yet she hopes to extend her shoe-making skills here in Riaci. She believes designer can deliver their thoughts through their works, hoping to keep motivate people with her designs.
After finishing our upper, this week we focus on lasting the shoes. First, we have to put up the insole, which is used to stable the shoe. We use hammer to punch a little bit in order to fit our last. When punching insole, the shape will changing, we glue it again to combine.
This is the step when I finish pre-lasting. Lasting is a technical word in shoe making that we put many tiny little nail through upper, lining into insole. The purpose of this step is to fit the leather on last before we use heavy glue to keep the shape.
Photo shot from my left side of shoe. We leave a little bit lining on the top also to prevent our shoe-shape changed when lasting it.
剛好我們幾個同學分別使用Decollete, Decollete Rovesciato and Aperto Dietro來攀鞋，教授同時教我們三種攀鞋技巧以符合不同鞋款。
Different style of pump shoes: Decollete, Decollete Rovesciato and Aperto Dietro. The techniques of lasting are different between these shoes, our professor Angelo show us the technique of lasting this week, next time we could make our own one.
If making men shoe, it’s better to use leather sole, because it is flexible and fit our feet. Meanwhile, different welting needs different insole-shape. On the left, the insole is for goodyear shoe. On the right, the insole is design for tirolese.
In this step, professor showed us how to put top counter into shoes. Top counter is important for protecting the toe cap and shape. We use heating machine to melt it a little bit then fit the toe cap.
This week we end up with heel lining, hope next week I could finish my chanel.
This is weekly reports, see you next week!
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