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Li SHIAU-TING
Reporter
Li SHIAU-TING

Nationality: Taiwan
Course: Shoe Making
Program: Master Course
Period: Sept. 5,2016-Apr. 28,2017


Shiau-Ting, Li. Shoes designer from Taiwan.
After working in Taiwanese footwear industry for three and a half years, she came to Firenze to study shoes making course, the city which is famous for leather art and shoes.
Although she already has basic aesthetics and sketching technique background from university (B.A.), yet she hopes to extend her shoe-making skills here in Riaci. She believes designer can deliver their thoughts through their works, hoping to keep motivate people with her designs.

李曉婷,來自台灣的鞋類設計師。
在台灣鞋產業工作三年半之後,她決定到皮革之都-佛羅倫斯,學習製鞋技術。
大學主修產品工藝,擁有美學背景、好的品味及繪畫基礎。即便如此,仍期望到莉雅琪延伸自己在實作上的經驗。她相信,設計師能夠透過設計表達想法,希望能持續用創作感動身邊的人。

台湾の靴業界で靴デザイナーとして3年半経験を積んだ後、さらに学びを深めようと革工芸と靴で有名なここフィレンツェへやって来ました。
基本的な審美眼とスケッチ技術は大学(文学士号取得)で学んでいましたが、さらに靴制作の技術を磨くためにリアチ入学を決めました。「デザイナーの想いは、デザインを通して人々に届く」ことを信じ、自分のデザインで人々の心を動かしたいと願っています。

Dec. 02, 2016 | Posted in Blog, Shoe Making/Design , | Tags:, | Language:
Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoe Making/Design

Shoe Making 11-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

Li SHIAU-TING_20161125_01
前幾個禮拜著重在鞋面的製作,這禮拜開始製作鞋大底。Angelo正在教Joe黏鞋跟前的前置作業。

Our course focus on making upper couple week ago, in this week, we focus on the method of making outsole. In this picture, Angelo are teaching JOE the skills of skiving outsole.

Li SHIAU-TING_20161125_02
在攀幫完鞋面之後,需將鞋底用機器削平,並置入鐵心。

After lasting upper, the shoe needed to be skived by machine and put on shank.

Li SHIAU-TING_20161125_03
今天是教授Angelo的生日,我們準備蛋糕、香檳配上音樂在教室開心慶祝,Angelo生日快樂!!

Today was Angelo’s birthday. We prepared cakes, champagne, music to celebrate. What a happy day! Happy birthday to dear Angelo.

Li SHIAU-TING_20161125_04
慶祝完後回到現實,繼續手上工作。黏上沿條、裁切一片皮料覆蓋鐵心後,準備將裁切好的大底片黏上。

Back to reality after celebration, keep moving to next step. Put the welted on, cut a slice of leather to cover shank then, preparing for sticking outsole.

Li SHIAU-TING_20161125_05
貼上大底後的樣子,看起來很有份量感、立體。

Photo shot after combining outsole. It looked more heavy and solid.

Li SHIAU-TING_20161125_06
開溝前的前置作業,為了讓皮革保持柔軟,要讓大底的皮革維持在微濕的狀態,才會比較好下刀開溝。

Before cutting groove, the leather should be wet.

Li SHIAU-TING_20161125_07
開溝是一項十分專業的技巧,需要長年經驗的累積,才能開出漂亮、乾淨的溝線。每次看教授切鞋底,都會看得出神。他咻的一下,輕輕劃過一圈,就切好了。當教授示範的時候,我一直si si si 個半天表示我了解,但換我切怎麼切就是切不下去。瞬間投以崇拜。希望自己有一天也能這樣運用自如。

To cut a beautiful groove need yearly practice and technical skills. Each time when I watching Angelo cutting grooves, it made me staggered. He did it quickly, beautifully, but for me, it ended up with totally different outcome. Hope one day I could do it as gracefully as he is.

Li SHIAU-TING_20161125_08
到了星期四,我們開始進行新的版型-Derby Shoe,Derby shoe跟Oxford不同的地方在於Derby有開放的前襟,在腳背的地方有更多的活動空間。Angelo說這款鞋我們將學習如何製作手縫線,在完成手縫線製作後教授會再帶著我完成Oxford囉。

This Thursday, we start from new pattern- Derby shoe. Derby shoe have open vamp compare to Oxford shoe. For this reason, there is more space around instep. Angelo said, we are going to learn how to make special thread for welting, then, I could follow him to keep working my Oxford shoe. Can’t wait!

Li SHIAU-TING_20161125_09
Derby的設計採用比較簡單的線條,也嘗試使用男生的尺寸來練習。

This time, I use simple line with man size 42.

Li SHIAU-TING_20161125_10
Derby在model的製作跟Oxford有非常大的不同,看似簡單的版子裡面卻大有學問。這是鞋舌處的鞋面裁片,也是最複雜的一片。為了讓之後鞋面貼合楦頭,在開版的時候要旋轉腳背算出最貼合的角度。
以上是這禮拜的報告分享,下週繼續囉!

The model between Derby and Oxford are very different. Though pattern seems simple, there was a profound of knowledge when making it. This is the pattern of tongue. In order to let upper fits last perfectly, the process need rotation to find the right angles.
This is weekly reports, see you next week!


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