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morita
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Morita

Nationality: Japan
Course: Shoe Making
Assistant

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Shoe Making Course

 

Dec. 02, 2014 | Posted in CourseShoe, Top Stories, LessonReport, Shoe Making & Shoe Design | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoe Making Course

Summer Course:Adhesive method

サマーコース 接着製法 16.7.2014


morita_20141201_1  morita_20141201_2  morita_20141201_3

・Students put each part together with a sewing machine. (Picture left)
・For a single- part balmoral design, students make a paper pattern adjusting so that the heel part is a bit smaller. (Pictures center & right)

・各パーツをミシンで縫い合わせます。(左)
・内羽デザインで羽部分を1パーツで取るデザインでは踵部分を少し小さくして型紙を作成します。(中・右)


morita_20141201_4  morita_20141201_5  morita_20141201_6

・Students adhere design tapes on the outside half of a shoetree and draw a design on it. (Picture left)
・After removing the design tapes from the shoetree, students adhere them on a cardboard so they do not wrinkle. (Picture center)
・When starting a new procedure, the instructor gather all students in the class. (Picture right)

・木型の外側半分にデザインテープを貼り付けデザインを描きます。(左)
・木型からデザインテープを剥がし、厚紙にシワを伸ばしながら貼り付けます。(中)
・新しい作業の説明では学生さんを集めて行います。(右)


morita_20141201_7  morita_20141201_8  morita_20141201_9

・Students adhere a skived leather on the back of the eyelet part, and a skinny reinforcing tape (nastrino) along the shoe opening part. (Picture left)
・For Goodyear welt, students use 6 sewing thread (spago) bundled together. (Picture center)
・Students learn how to sew by practicing before they actually sew a Goodyear welt shoe. (Picture right)

・紐を通すための穴部分には薄く漉いた革を貼り付け、履き口部分には細い補強テープを貼り付けます(nastrino)。(左)
・グッドイヤーウエルト製法で使用する縫い糸(spago)は1本の糸を6本に束ねて使用します。(中)
・グッドイヤーウエルトの縫いを行う前に練習で縫いの方法を覚えます。(右)



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