Leather Craft: Shoes November 6, 2013
Today’s lesson is about process of sole and heel of the third kind of DECOLLETE, the Chanel (Open-back) type.
While fixing the upper leather and the insole with several nails in the arch area of the shoe, you paste the toe core part (puntale) from the inside of the leather. The toe core part must be smoldered with flame, then form the shape by pulling it and fix it with vegetable glue. The unnecessary parts are cut off and dealt with to make a clean exterior.
In the uniting part of the toe, the glue (natural resin called mastice) must be placed. Then fix the upper leather to the insole using nails, starting from the arch area. What a surprise to see that so many nails were used for tacking!
Only 1/4 of the nail is implanted all around the edge of the insole, and then the rest of the nail is bent inward with a hammer. During this process, you need to pull the leather toward the inside by hitting and bending the nail. After waiting for about 2 hours, the leather will not turn back and is glued-on properly.
The tacked nails are pulled out with pliers, and the wrinkled and unnecessary parts are cut and removed, then you prepare to attach the heel to the sole,
There are two types of heels, one all covered with leather and the other with only three sides (back and sides) covered with leather.
For the heel type all covered with leather, it is glued to the sole with a method called “tacco a cono” and for the heel type with only 3 sides covered with leather, the method of “tacco a coda” is used to glue the sole.
The sole used for tacco a cono is made by cutting the salpa. It is cut along the line of the sole, and the part to tuck in between the heel and the insole and the edges are thinned down with a leather knife. For tacco a coda, they are not tucked in but the sole and the heel are glued together.
Although theses procedures are complicated, students receive help from the assistants, or teach each other, so that the lesson proceeds in a harmonious atmosphere that they seem to be having so much fun.