Accademia Riaci
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morita
Reporter
Morita

Nationality: Japan
Course: Shoe Making
Assistant

Nov. 04, 2014 | Posted in Blog, Shoemaking , | Tags:, | Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking

Summer Course:Adhesive method 1

サマーコース パンプス接着製法 1 17.6.2014


Adhesive method20141101_1  Adhesive method20141101_2  Adhesive method20141101_3

・Students need to be cautious about the direction in which the leather stretches when putting a pattern paper on the top of the leather for drawing lines. (Picture left)
・Students skive leather around the shoe opening using a knife. Firstly students skive leather leaving 2/3 thickness all around. For the front part of shoe opening, students skive leather as they turn the leather. This process is very difficult. (Pictures center & right)

・型紙を革の載せて裁断のラインを引きますが、革の伸び方向を気をつけて裁断します。(左)
・裁断した革の履き口にあたる部分をナイフを使い薄く漉きます。
厚みを3分の2程度残すように全体を漉き、履き口前方の丸い部分は革を回転させながら革を漉くので難しい作業です。(中・右)


Adhesive method20141101_4  Adhesive method20141101_5  Adhesive method20141101_6

・Students skive leather around the shoe opening using a knife. Firstly students skive leather leaving 2/3 thickness all around. For the front part of shoe opening, students skive leather as they turn the leather. This process is very difficult. (Pictures left)
・Once all skiving is finished, 2 leathers are put together provisionally, then sewn with the sawing machine. (Pictures center & top)

・裁断した革の履き口にあたる部分をナイフを使い薄く漉きます。 厚みを3分の2程度残すように全体を漉き、履き口前方の丸い部分は革を回転させながら 革を漉くので難しい作業です。(左)
・全体を漉いたら部分的に2枚の革を仮止めし履き口部分のミシンがけを行います。(中・右)


Adhesive method20141101_7  Adhesive method20141101_8  Adhesive method20141101_9

・The leather is folded so stitches do not show from outside. (Picture left)
・It makes the line look neater if the inner leather is put a bit lower than the outside leather. (Picture center)
・In the next lesson, we are going to make Chanel type shoes with heel openings. (Picture right)

・ミシンの縫いを内側にして革を折り返し外側から縫いが見えない様にします。(左)
・足に当たる革を外側の革より少し下げる様にすることでラインが綺麗に見えます(中)
・次回から踵の開いたシャネルタイプの制作にはいります。(右)


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