Accademia Riaci
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morita
Reporter
Morita

Nationality: Japan
Course: Shoe Making
Assistant

Sep. 10, 2014 | Posted in Blog, Shoemaking , | Tags:, | Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking

Goodyear welt stitching, Norwegian-style stitching, Adhesive method 1

グッドイヤーウエルト製法・ノルベジェーゼ製法・接着製法1 16.4.2014

グッドイヤーウエルト製法・ノルベジェーゼ製法・接着製法  グッドイヤーウエルト製法・ノルベジェーゼ製法・接着製法  グッドイヤーウエルト製法・ノルベジェーゼ製法・接着製法

・Leathers about 5mm thick are piled up to form a heel. (Picture left)
・After sewing the welt on, students cut the excess leather off, and then glue cork and leather on. (Picture center)
・This is the 2nd sewing in the Norwegian-style. (Picture right)

・踵は5mm程度の革を積み上げて仕上げていきます。(左)
・ウエルトを縫い付けた後、余分な革を切り取りコルクと革を貼り付けていきます。(中)
・ノルベジェーゼ製法での2回目の縫い。(右)


グッドイヤーウエルト製法・ノルベジェーゼ製法・接着製法  グッドイヤーウエルト製法・ノルベジェーゼ製法・接着製法  グッドイヤーウエルト製法・ノルベジェーゼ製法・接着製法

・Students finish off by applying cream on the entire surface before removing the shoetree. (Picture left)
・For neater finish, students fold in the cut section. (Picture center)
・He is struggling with his first shoe lasting. (Picture right)

・木型を抜き取る前にクリームを全体に塗り仕上げます。(左)
・切り口を折り返す事で仕上げが綺麗になります。(中)
・初めての吊り込みに苦戦しております。(右)


グッドイヤーウエルト製法・ノルベジェーゼ製法・接着製法  グッドイヤーウエルト製法・ノルベジェーゼ製法・接着製法

・The instructor teaches step by step how to perform shoe lasting and hammering nails. (Picture left)
・Cutting out paper patterns requires precision. It is very important as it has a great effect in the finished product.(Picture right)

・吊り込み方法や釘の打ち方は先生が丁寧に指導してくれます。(左)
・型紙の裁断は細かく大変ですが、仕上がりに大きく影響するので大切です。(右)



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