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morita
Reporter
Morita

Nationality: Japan
Course: Shoe Making
Assistant


Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in Top Stories, Shoe Making & Shoe Design , | Tags:, | Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoe Making/Design

Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 5

外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法5 29.1.2014

外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法 外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法

・After the lasting, we remove all nails and attach the sole leather
・When we use the adhesion process, we use a 3mm-thick leather for the sole

・吊り込み後、全ての釘を抜いてソールの革を貼り付けます。
・接着製法の場合はソールに3mm程度の硬い革を貼り付けます。


外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法 外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法 外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法

・This student is attending the 2nd year of shoemaking, and is now making a Norwegian-stitching style shoe
・When we perform this kind of chain stitch, let’s pay attention that the thread doesn’t tangle up
・The stitch length is set to 5-6mm. It’s very difficult to stitch straight, without deviations
・Around the heel and toe part the stitch tends easily to widen so it’s important to pay attention.

・2年目の生徒さんはノルベジェーゼ製法の靴を制作中。
・チェーンの様な縫いを行うため作業中は糸が絡まない様に注意します。
・チェーンの縫い目は5~6mmの間隔で、曲がりが無いように縫うので非常に難しいです。
・つま先や踵部分は縫い目が広くなり易いので注意が必要です。


 


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