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morita
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Morita

Nationality: Japan
Course: Shoe Making
Assistant

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Shoe Making Course

 

Oct. 31, 2014 | Posted in Blog, CourseShoe, LessonReport, Shoe Making/Design | Tags: , | Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoe Making Course

Summer Course:Adhesive method pumps 3

サマーコース 接着製法パンプス 3 25&26.6.2014


Adhesive method pumps_1  Adhesive method pumps_2  Adhesive method pumps_3

・Shoe opening and other edges of the leather are folded to hide the cut surface. (Picture left)
・For pumps with an opening at the heel, students insert a core at the root part of its belt to maintain its shape. (Picture center)
・After sewing the outer and inner leathers together, students cut off the excess inner leather around the edge leaving a certain part uncut. (Picture right)

・履き口と周囲は折り返して裁断面を隠します。(左)
・踵の開いているパンプスでは芯をベルト部分の付け根に入れて形状を保ちます。(中)
・表革と裏革を縫い合わせたら周囲に出ている裏側を一部を残して切り取ります。(右)

Adhesive method pumps_4  Adhesive method pumps_5  Adhesive method pumps_6

・Students must be careful about the direction the leather stretches when cutting out a leather to cover a heel part of the intermediate sole. (Picture left)
・Students put the shoe on a shoetree for shoe lasting. (Picture center)
・Students perform shoe lasting as they check both sides of the shoe. (Picture right)

・中底の踵部分に巻き革をしますが伸びも方向に注意して裁断します。(左)
・木型に載せて吊り込みを行います。(中)
・左右の位置を確認しながら吊り込みを行います。(右)

Adhesive method pumps_7  Adhesive method pumps_8  Adhesive method pumps_9

・Shoe lasting is performed using standard-sized nails except for the heel part where 8mm nails are used. (Picture left)
・Students pull out all the nails, roughen the bottom surface for better adhering, and then glue the heel on. (Picture center)
・Students put the shoe on a cardboard to cut out a shoe sole pattern paper. (Pictures right)

・踵部分は長さ8mmの釘を打ち、それ以外は通常の釘を使用して吊り込みを行います。(左)
・釘を全て抜き、裏面を接着し易い様に荒らし、ヒールを固定します。(中)
・厚紙を靴底に合わせ形状を切り出します。(右)

Adhesive method pumps_10 Adhesive method pumps_11  Adhesive method pumps_12

・Students put the shoe on a cardboard to cut out a shoe sole pattern paper. (Pictures left)
・By using this paper pattern, students cut out an outsole from 3mm thick leather and adhere it to the bottom of the shoe. (Pictures center & right)

・厚紙を靴底に合わせ形状を切り出します。(左)
・厚さ3mm程度の革を型紙から切り出し、底面に合わせて接着します。(中、右)

Adhesive method pumps_13 Adhesive method pumps_14  Adhesive method pumps_15

・After removing the shoetree, students fasten the heel furthermore by a screw from inside, and then glue on a cushion material. (Picture left)
・An insole is inserted in the shoe for finish. (Picture center)
・Next lesson will be on adhesive method men’s shoes with open-lace. (Picture right)

・木型を抜き取り内側からネジで踵をさらに固定し、クッション材を貼り付けます。(左)
・内側に中敷を入れて完成。(中)
・次回からは男性用の接着製法、内羽を制作します。(右)


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