Accademia Riaci
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morita
Reporter
Morita

Nationality: Japan
Course: Shoe Making
Assistant

Jul. 17, 2014 | Posted in Uncategorized , | Tags:, | Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking

OPEN-LACED SHOES AND GOODYEAR STYLE STITCHING 1

外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法1 13.2.2014

外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法 外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法

・Also for Goodyear stitching, the lasting process is the same
・This student is planning to realize a Brogueing decoration on the toe cap
・We insert a toe core and this is how the lasting looks like on the leather surface

・グッドイヤー製法の場合も吊り込み方法は今までと同じです。
・この生徒さんはつま先部分の穴飾りが次回の課題と言う事です
・つま先部分に芯を入れ、表の革を吊り込んだ状態です。


外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法 外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法  外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法

・We set he heel size made of built up layers of leather
(the heel size corresponds to 1/4 of the whole sole length)
・There is a predetermined standard height for the heel, that we reach by building up leather layers
・With a grinder we polish around the heel.

・積み上げをする踵の大きさを設定します。
(踵の大きさは底の全長の四分の一程度が一般的です。)
・踵部分は革を積み上げて所定の高さに設定します。
・グラインダーを使用して踵の周囲を整えます。



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